Jenny: Hi I’m Jenny from the Missouri Star Quilt Company and I’m here with Stephen Nixdorf and Stephen works with us here at the Missouri Star Quilt Company and he makes bags. He’s a great sewer and he makes a lot of awesome purses and bags. So when we finished with this quilt behind us, which if you want to know how to make you can see it in the description below, but when we finished with this we had all these left over Dresden’s. Like see this is just a straight Dresden and Stephen saw those and proof his like brain exploded, haha and he made this bag. So Stephen is going to show us today how to do this bag. Welcome Stephen.
Stephen: Thank you Jenny.
Jenny: Hahah, we’re so formal. So first actually let’s show them actually how we cut a Dresden, because we’ve got, we’ve got this, we’ve got this Dresden tool and we had leftovers, but you may want to start this on your own, without you know, with you may not have any extras, but if you do this is such a great project. So we’re just going to cut this and you can cut out of a layer cake square. You can get like three of these. So, so Stephen is, the fabric, this fabric is, what is this called again Stephen?
Jenny: “Citron Grey.”
Stephen: Pastel Pops
Jenny: I think is it Michael Miller?
Jenny: I think its Michael Miller. So they have, they have two color ways in this fabric and one of them is this grey and there’s this purple and since he already made this fabulous bag. Look how cute this is. Since he already made this fabulous bag out of the “Citron,” we’re going to use the other side of the line. So Stephen it’s all yours. Tell us what to do, haha. How do we start this?
Stephen: What you’re going to need to make this is twenty two of the Dresden cut outs. Ten for each side. One for, ten for each front and back and then one for each side.
Jenny: Then what about your lining fabric? How much will you need of that?
Stephen: You’ll need three quarters, about three quarters of a yard. That way you can get both your lining panel out of it and four and half inch strips for your handles.
Jenny: Awesome and then what is this, this white stuff here, this?
Stephen: That is interfacing, it’s woven fusible interfacing made by Pellon.
Jenny: And is it, how much do you need of that then?
Stephen: You need about two yards to line both the…
Jenny: Oh, because your lining inside…
Jenny: … and the outside. Oh that’s really cool it makes a really, I mean the bag just feels really cool and sturdy so.
Stephen: Yeah it’s great for a durable bag that you can carry every day.
Jenny: Alright so let’s make one of these front panels. How do we do this?
Stephen: First you’re going to take one, you’re going to choose one of your Dresden’s and put it right in the middle.
Jenny: And it’s, and it’s the one that going to go…
Jenny: … pointing down.
Stephen: Pointing down and then you’re going to sew four onto each side of that one.
Jenny: And they point up?
Jenny: So I’m…
Stephen: That way it gives it a nice curved look.
Jenny: So why don’t you hand me a couple and I’ll start sewing some of those together for you.
Jenny: I will be your sewer.
Stephen: I’ve got them kind of arranged in an order for this, for the other panel that we got here.
Jenny: Do you like them to be matching side to side?
Stephen: On this one I think we’re going to match it, cause I think it will be off shapen if not.
Jenny: I’ll look funny. Alright so did you sew these two by two or do you just keep sewing them all together until they’re all done?
Stephen: Just sew them.
Jenny: You just keep sewing them on?
Stephen: That one can go onto the green.
Stephen: I think it is going to be backwards.
Jenny: It won’t matter.
Jenny: Nobody looks at the front and back of their purse at the same time, haha. I’m just here to tell you, haha.
Stephen: Ok. Well I don’t care, I’ll just try and make them the best I can.
Jenny: There you go, haha. Maybe you should get into man bags. Maybe you should think about that you know.
Stephen: Well I, I thought about it, but it all just looks so girly.
Stephen: I just go all out with the purple and pinks and make them really pretty.
Jenny: Oh that’s awesome. Ok so these are pointing up. So now I have this half piece. So we’ve take one Dresden and cut it in half then?
Stephen: Right. Cut it in half and it’s also going to point down.
Jenny: It’s going to point down.
Stephen: And it’s just going to go right to the edge and…
Stephen: … whenever it’s time to attach the front and the back panels…
Jenny: Uh huh.
Stephen: … you’ll make a nice side piece.
Jenny: A little, make a whole one. Oooh very cool. Alright so let me get these and, and then.
Stephen: So nice to have Jenny sewing for me.
Jenny: Wow! Ok so I’ve finished sewing these together. I have four pointing up and a half one pointing down and then you have any trick for ironing.
Stephen: Yeah, what I do is I start in the middle and then press my seams out on this bag. That way the Dresden’s at the top won’t overlap each other.
Stephen: Kind of a bulky.
Jenny: So we’ll just do that.
Stephen: We’ll start from the middle and so…
Jenny: Just lay them all over to the side.
Stephen: Right. And then we’ll sew it on to our center piece and it’ll make our next panel.
Jenny: And do you flip this over then to make sure that none of these have like little folds in them and stuff?
Stephen: Man, it gives it a nice crisp look, just to sew on.
Jenny: Did you all like that. Yes ma’am he said, haha.
Stephen: My momma raised me right.
Jenny: There you go, haha. Alright so now we have to attach this.
Stephen: Yes and it’ll attach just like that.
Jenny: Oh ok. So then, so then just to recap we have the one pointing down, four pointing up and then the outside one again is pointing down. So I’ll…
Stephen: It’s just a half of one on each side.
Jenny: So you want me to just to go sew this on.
Stephen: The next thing we’re going to do is attach the interfacing and the easiest way to do this, it comes in a twenty inch, about twenty inch wide spread so you just lay your panel right on top of the interfacing. Press it right, right down.
Jenny: And trim it out.
Jenny: So let me, before, before you start this. So this interfacing has a bumpy side and the bumpy side is what goes next to the fabric. So when he, when you actually put this down, you just lay this onto your piece and then this front piece here becomes your pattern.
Jenny: Ok, awesome. So then you just iron it right.
Stephen: Uh huh.
Jenny: Very cool and he’s got one already done here. Speedy him. And do you have to like hold it for a long time or anything or just?
Stephen: You just want to make sure you have plenty of steam on the interfacing and make sure it all gets hot, cause it is heat activated.
Jenny: Oh ok.
Stephen: I like to turn it over and…
Jenny: Hit both sides.
Stephen: Yeah. Iron on the front and on the backside.
Jenny: So now what do we do?
Stephen: Now that you have both panels, what you’re going to want to do is make your lining panel and you’re going to use this as your template or your pattern piece to make the lining.
Stephen: So you can pick a coordinating print or a solid or whatever kind of fabric you want to go on the inside and your just going to lay this onto the fabric and cut it right out.
Jenny: Ok, so you’ll have, then you’ll have two of these and you’ve done that here…
Jenny: … and you’ll have two of these for you lining and these are also backed…
Jenny: … with the…
Stephen: It gives the bag a really sturdy feel and it’ll last for as long as you want to use it.
Stephen: And it gives, you’re able to wash it and…
Jenny: Oh very cool.
Stephen: … yeah that way you don’t have to worry about it if it get dirty you can throw it in the washer and get it cleaned up.
Jenny: There you go and I actually like a dark lining for that purpose, because purses do get, they get a little dirty.
Stephen: I know how you ladies like to carry your makeup in there and my wife’s makeup always comes open.
Stephen: So if we can wash it then it’s always better.
Jenny: Alright, so do we the two fronts together and the two backs together or one to one or what are we going to do?
Stephen: What we’re going to do next is sew the front panels together.
Jenny: So these two?
Stephen: Exterior ones.
Jenny: And I’m just going to lay them right sides together and sew right down these sides, that’s correct?
Stephen: Down the sides and across the bottom.
Stephen: Make sure you back stitch on these.
Jenny: Let me move this over here so you can see it. Oh ok, cause I don’t usually backstitch, cause I’m quilting.
Stephen: That’s one thing that’s different than, than the quilting.
Stephen: You want to backstitch and…
Jenny: I’m going to have to figure out where the backstitch button is on here, haha. No I got it. Alright I’m coming right down here to the bottom. Do you do sides first or do you just go right on around?
Stephen: I, I got straight down the bottom and then…
Jenny: And then turn it and go.
Jenny: And the backstitch, go, wait I have to start I guess. There we go. Woo I’m not, haha, I’m not very knowledgeable on the backstitch. Alright so now what?
Stephen: Now we’ve got our finished main panels.
Jenny: Do you trim your corners?
Stephen: Yeah, yes you do. Actually what we’re going to do is we’re going to make a gusset.
Jenny: Oh ok cool.
Stephen: If you can grab the, the, the finished bag that we have. We’ll use it for reference point. On this bag…
Jenny: Alright so right down here.
Stephen: … we want to make a gusset or the corners will be folded in and sewn across. That way it doesn’t look like a big Mohawk.
Jenny: Which actually when he made this he did, he did you know put the, put the Mohawk bag on, haha.
Stephen: The Dresden hawk.
Jenny: The Dresden hawk.
Stephen: So, where your one, what you want to do to make your…
Jenny: Let me move these so that the camera can get a good view.
Stephen: … which the word gusset and the look of this might be kind of scary but it’s not that difficult of a, of a thing to do. What I like to do is I’ll sew my seams open like this and match the bottom and the side.
Jenny: Uh huh.
Stephen: And then we’ll, what we’re going to do is we’re going to measure two inches down on the middle and then three inches on each side. So it will give it a little bit of a curve.
Jenny: Oh ok. So you’re going to need a little pin for that.
Stephen: And press this down.
Jenny: And really you could just stick your pin through and find the front and find the back and anchor them that way too.
Stephen: That is a good way to do that.
Jenny: I’m going to, I think I’m going to pin this one while you’re working on that.
Jenny: Go ahead. Team work, you know. Well we haven’t really measured. Maybe I’m getting ahead of myself here.
Stephen: Well I have a measuring tape you can borrow.
Jenny: Haha, ok I’ll, I’ll just let you go, haha.
Jenny: There you go.
Stephen: So, oh do you have a pen?
Jenny: I do.
Jenny: Haha, I do.
Stephen: So we want to mark two inches this direction.
Stephen: And three inches this way.
Jenny: Alright. Put a little pin right here and I’m not pinning that all the way through, because you may want to…
Stephen: I found the three inch mark here.
Jenny: I’m worried that this one isn’t quite lined up, but do you think it is?
Stephen: I think…
Jenny: Yeah I think it is.
Stephen: Yeah it is.
Jenny: Alright. So I’m going to go ahead and stick these all the way through. Now do you draw it or do you just eyeball this?
Stephen: That is really up to you.
Jenny: And do you come this way?
Stephen: By now I’ve done so many gussets that it, it’s almost easier to eyeball it for me, but…
Jenny: So you…
Stephen: …sometimes I pull out a ink pen and I just draw lines. Start in the middle and then work my way to each side.
Jenny: So it’s just like a little smile then.
Jenny: So it’s going to go, it’s going to go up to here.
Stephen: And this step also isn’t so technical that if you miss it, it’s not going to mess the bag up.
Jenny: Nobody’s going to die.
Jenny: Alright let me try this then. Alright so I’m going to go. I’m going to start right here at this three and I’m going to take that pin out. I hope, haha, there we go. Where’s that tiny little pin cushion that way over here somewhere?
Stephen: Here it is. It’s blending in the background.
Jenny: Alright then I’m going to sew down here to the two and then I’m going to sew back up to the three. There we go and backstitch. Alright now we’re going to do the same thing on the other side right?
Jenny: So on this one when you go ahead and pin it. Let’s just draw that smile so they can see it.
Jenny: Exactly what the lines supposed to be.
Stephen: Alright so we’re going to take our tape measurer and measure two inches up from the…
Jenny: From the point.
Stephen: … and just draw a little line right here and this is all on the inside of the bag.
Jenny: Yeah, nobody can see it.
Stephen: So nobody else is ever going to notice.
Stephen: And we’ll go three inches from the side.
Stephen: And start from, I don’t know if I got, oh I did two inches on that one didn’t I.
Jenny: No you did three.
Stephen: Ok. Then we’ll start from the center and draw to the sides.
Jenny: And that gives you the little smile.
Stephen: Yep. And you can even draw the little…
Jenny: Oh stop it.
Jenny: Haha no eyes, no nose.
Stephen: Corner, corner of the mouth smiles there.
Jenny: Haha. Haha ok I’m going to sew right on this line. That’s a good visual though to be able to see that that’s a little better. There we go. Alright. So now what?
Stephen: Now we’re just going to…
Jenny: Do we trim them?
Stephen: Yes, we’re going to cut that right off.
Stephen: And you want to leave about a quarter inch of a seam allowance right here. Make sure you don’t trim your threads, cause then it’ll just fall apart.
Jenny: And it’ll just fall apart. You don’t want to cut those. So can we turn it right side out and see what it looks like?
Stephen: Yeah let’s do that.
Stephen: What I like to do when I turn a bag.
Jenny: Uh huh.
Stephen: Is put one arm in through the, through the neck and then grab on the corner and pull it through.
Jenny: Uh huh.
Stephen: That way…
Jenny: And then do you just, just like…
Stephen: All of this will.
Jenny: … push out the corners.
Stephen: And will give it a nice clean look.
Stephen: Cause it’s a lot harder to do that whenever the linings in.
Jenny: Oh ok. I see.
Stephen: And now you have your Dresden hawk.
Jenny: Haha you can’t call it that. This is the cutest, look how cute this is. Alright now what I’m going to do is I’m going to do the exact same thing to the lining and I’m going to sew around the outside edge, we’re going to mark the gussets and do it and we’ll meet you right back here.
Jenny: So I finished sewing these linings together. I sewed them right sides together and we did the little gusset thing and also I left about a six inch opening in the bottom here so that we can turn it.
Stephen: Uh huh.
Jenny: Is that right?
Jenny: Alright do we need to turn this or anything or is it ok just like this?
Stephen: We’re going, we’re going to leave the line, with the interfacing side out.
Jenny: Ok perfect.
Stephen: And then when we put them together that will be perfect for that. Next thing we want to do is we want to attach some handles onto our bag so you can carry it around.
Stephen: For the handles it’s a super simple process. I took a four and a half inch strip and cut it just like this.
Jenny: So it’s out the same color as the lining?
Stephen: It’s out of the exact same color. That extra you’ll have about six inch strip left after you cut this out you’re just going to cut that with the width of the fabric.
Jenny: So like a forty inch long strip.
Stephen: Right. On the fold and then you’re just going to cut the fold off and you’ll have two.
Jenny: Two strips.
Jenny: So one inch strip that you cut in half.
Stephen: Right and then you’re going to take it and you’re going to fold it in half, like a hot dog. Remember that in school.
Jenny: Haha, no, haha.
Stephen: Well you have your hamburger and your hot dog folds.
Jenny: Oh ok.
Stephen: You’re going to fold this one like a hot dog bun.
Jenny: Haha ok. Haha.
Stephen: And press it down.
Stephen: Then you want to open it back up and you’re going to fold it in and meet your, meet the fold.
Stephen: And then you’re going to press that down on both sides.
Jenny: Ok so, how wide was the strip to begin?
Stephen: This is four and half inch wide.
Jenny: Ok so, we got a four and a half inch wide strip. We’re going to fold it in half. Press a line. Then we’re going to fold those halves into the middle press line.
Jenny: And that will give us a strip that’s about this wide.
Jenny: And this is kind of a cool stitching on here Stephen. What kind of stitch is this?
Stephen: That’s a triple stitch and it’s, it’s one of the stitches that is available on most sewing machines and I really like it. It gives it a nice clean look.
Jenny: It really does. It’s very nice.
Stephen: It’s my favorite kind for top stitching.
Jenny: Very good.
Stephen: So then last step is just to fold it back in half.
Stephen: And then press it down. Now you’re going to edge stitch on this, so you want to make sure that your sides stay together whenever you sew that down. On the temp the triple stitch is number two and so we’ve got a machine set to two and we can start sewing. I like to have my needles set right in the center. That way I can line for the, for this edge stitch. I can line up my fabric right to the inside of the foot.
Jenny: So this stitch like takes a little longer, but it’s well worth the wait.
Stephen: It definitely takes a little longer and being that it’s a thicker stitch if you don’t take your time with it you will see a lot of waves. So you want to take your time.
Stephen: So when you finish this side just take it around and you can sew the other side.
Stephen: Now that we have our two handles done, we’re going to trim these threads up and you’re going to find the top part and you’re going to attach it straight to the main part of the bag. What I like to do is put it right next to the upside down. The one, the Dresden that’s pointing down. We’re going to put it right next to that one.
Stephen: And you’re going to baste stitch or just stitch it a quarter inch line from, for that handle. And we can go ahead and attach this. Make sure you don’t twist up your, your handle so it has a nice and even, straight handle. I need one more pin. Can I borrow your pins ma’am?
Jenny: There you go. Yes you can.
Stephen: Thank you.
Jenny: So can we just go ahead and put them on both sides so that we can do it all at once?
Stephen: Yes you can.
Jenny: Alright, excellent.
Stephen: So once again you want the top stitched side against the main panel.
Jenny: I’m just going to look at this a minute, because there’s not really much difference, haha.
Stephen: There’s, there’s not much difference.
Jenny: Haha, I was looking to see if I, you kept saying the top side and I was like hum.
Stephen: It’ll, it’ll look really good on both sides, but when you feel it, if you can feel it its a little rougher on the bottom side.
Jenny: Oh it is a rougher, ok.
Stephen: Where the bottom is.
Jenny: That makes sense. That I can do.
Stephen: Ok. Sometimes you got to go by feel, you can’t go by sight.
Stephen: We’ll just pin that in place and we’re going to do a quarter inch seam right across the top of the handles.
Jenny: Just on the handles.
Jenny: Alright. And this, this is just to, for placement.
Jenny: And so you can take the pins out.
Stephen: It makes it a lot easier when you turn the bag.
Jenny: Alrighty. And I don’t need to backstitch really?
Stephen: No. Cause this seams going to be in, incased in the, the top seam.
Jenny: Ok so this is the last little handle here. There we go and they’re all just tacked on.
Jenny: So now probably we need to clip all of these.
Stephen: Yeah we can go ahead and trim these threads. Let me do that. Now what we’re going to do is put this bag inside the lining.
Stephen: So we’re just going to, I like to slide my hand in right into the opening and stuff her in there.
Stephen: Make sure you match the gussets together. That way it’ll give it a nice clean finish and make sure your handles get inside of the…
Jenny: On the right side.
Stephen: Yeah, in, in between the gusset or in between the main and the lining. That way you have handles when you finish sewing.
Jenny: You don’t catch them in the seam.
Stephen: And another way that you can make sure that the handles are in the right place and they’re not going to get sewn all wonky in there. I like that word by the way.
Jenny: Wonky. Yeah.
Stephen: Wonky. Is you can reach into the bottom of the lining and just give the handles a little tug until they’re right in to where you want them.
Jenny: Ok. Perfect.
Jenny: Now we need to pin this top together.
Jenny: Alright so we start at the sides right?
Stephen: Uh huh.
Jenny: Which is there we go.
Stephen: Looks like I had it twisted a little bit.
Jenny: And I’m going to put just a couple on each side. There we go. Put a couple on this side. This is a sacrifice for me you know I’m not much of a pinner.
Jenny: Hahaha. You like the pins though don’t you.
Stephen: I do like the pins. That way I don’t have to tug and straighten it out.
Jenny: Haha. What you, what you saying, what you saying?
Stephen: I’m not saying.
Jenny: Hahaha. Alright now I’m going to go sew this. What half an inch?
Stephen: I don’t have that kind of skill to straighten it out as you go.
Jenny: Oh whatever, haha.
Stephen: It’s just not something I possess.
Jenny: Haha. Alright so I’m just going to start sewing here and…
Stephen: You want to do a half inch seam on this one.
Jenny: Ok so we’re going to make this a little bit fatter. How do you feel about sewing over pins?
Jenny: Do you sew over them or do you pull them out?
Stephen: I, I have but I’ve also bent a needle or two sewing them. So I just start pulling them out as I go.
Jenny: Haha. There we go. Oops here’s a stray. There we go.
Jenny: Alright so now we have this all sewn down. Gosh it’s not perfectly straight. Is that going to matter?
Stephen: No it’s not going to matter.
Jenny: Alright. I, I tried.
Stephen: It will not show up.
Jenny: Ha go, just turn it, ha.
Stephen: Ok and so this is ha, this is the way that, that we…
Jenny: You just pull it right through that bottom.
Stephen: It’s just like the birth of a bag.
Jenny: The birth of a bag.
Stephen: Ok, and now you have the main panel and the lining panel.
Jenny: And is this where we sew the lining together. I mean the little hole?
Stephen: Yeah the little hole. Now that everything’s on the outside we can sew. What we’ll do is we’ll just press this in.
Jenny: Press that under. Here let me move this so you guys can see better over here. We keep scooting that, that one bag around. It’s, it really is so, it really is such a cute bag.
Stephen: Woo, little bit of steam going on there.
Jenny: Yep. And then we just top stitch that down.
Stephen: Yes, just a nice little top stitch.
Jenny: Tiny little on the edge.
Stephen: Make sure you backstitch, cause we don’t want that hole to come open.
Jenny: Ok and you’d probably really want to use matching thread wouldn’t you if you did it.
Jenny: Yeah well we’re just going to do this to show.
Stephen: You’re going to use some white.
Jenny: There we go. Alrighty. Trimmed and everything.
Stephen: Ok now, we’re just going to put…
Jenny: open up our purse.
Stephen: Right and stuff the lining back inside where it belongs.
Jenny: Big thread on there.
Stephen: Once again you can just put your hand right in there and line up your, your gussets together.
Jenny: Look at how cute this is.
Stephen: It’s amazing and it’s super simple and easy.
Stephen: I love the Dresden cut out. Ok and then what I like to do is just press this down. You can top stitch with that triple stitch is you want to give it a more finished look or you can…
Jenny: Just straight top stitch it even.
Jenny: Where’s those little scissors.
Stephen: We’ve got some straggler threads.
Jenny: We do have a few stragglers. Alright so do we want to just top stitch that down so we can just show the whole finished product?
Stephen: For sure.
Jenny: Ok so I’m starting on the side of the bag and I’m just going to top stitch around it. You want to make sure that your handles are pulled straight up. This will also help anchor the handles won’t it?
Jenny: And I’m just going to do a straight top stitch around here and, and are we, are we doing this any, any certain size. I’m just kind of going along at a…
Stephen: I just do about an eighth of an inch.
Jenny: Oh ok. I think my…
Stephen: Just about the same as what I do my handles.
Jenny: I was going to say mines, mines like a skinny quarter, haha.
Stephen: Ha. It’s all up to preference on this.
Jenny: Yeah, how you want it.
Stephen: Because it’s your bag you want to make it look like how you want it.
Jenny: That’s right and I am all almost done here and we’re going to backstitch. There we go and that backstitch is on the side so it won’t show very much. Alrighty. That looks pretty dang good.
Stephen: I’m glad you love it.
Jenny: I do love it.
Stephen: That’s good and…
Jenny: Well I love not wasting.
Jenny: You know I love that when there’s a pile of, of blades left over and we, we didn’t you know, I mean normally what do you with them and you’ve come up with this awesome project. So.
Stephen: Yeah instead of having to stuff them in a drawer somewhere…
Stephen: You can make up a bag that matches your quilt and it’s just…
Jenny: It’s just perfect. So take a look at that and look it goes perfect with my sweater even.
Stephen: Oh it is.
Jenny: Haha, that’s awesome. Stephen thank you so much for showing us this.
Stephen: Well thanks for having me.
Jenny: Well we have you all the time. You’re here with us. You’re stuck with us, haha. You’re a keeper.
Stephen: Well I like being here too.
Jenny: Haha. Well we hope you enjoyed this tutorial on the “Dresden blade bag” the “Dresden blade bag,” is that right?
Stephen: I like the Dresden hawk, haha.
Jenny: Haha. So we hope you enjoyed this tutorial on the “Dresden Blade,” or as Stephen would say the Dresden hawk, haha from the Missouri Star Quilt Company.